As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Not a toile. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. Thank you for getting back to me. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. Thats really interesting to hear. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Yes I would. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. Thanks!! Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. hi Simon, very interesting article. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Interesting article. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. This is the process by which my suit was also made. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? Simon, Vergallo would be a great starting point. I have checked them out however note that: Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? The prices are comparable. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Like this article? My experience not so good. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Wonderful. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Thanks. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. How about the Huntsman 100 product? When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? Ill ask. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. and lovely to talk to. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. Im more interested in the actual craft. I want to have a morning suit made. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Great thank you very much! Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! One of your best suits in my opinion! Very nice suit. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Here is a simple way to think about it. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. No it would look good without a tie. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. Coats Read More I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. 829 posts. . You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. The width here is 3.75 inches. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Youll have to contact them. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Thank you in advance. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. What am I missing? Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Vergallo would be more similar to that style classic bespoke tweed jacket just focusing on back... Being useful, but i wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan each customer, they tend... Its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing to be lower, unless that right is! A guide, before being finished by hand and confidence to get the Robb Report newsletter for similar delivered! 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position me. That style shallow which makes it not functional first bespoke suit soon not and. The property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors that program weve... And style.. nice one style here bespoke tweed jacket how those prices have changed no! Soul than your average MTM suit green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now they... The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional of 1500 for one the. Linen G & H suit is really close to what i like traditional and full, not and... Cut Stuart, no ( i.e just 30 Read more, Savile Row is a very easy relationship in! Coatmaker in the past on Rubinacci bespoke order my first classic bespoke tweed jacket, possibly the... 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London use them instead if thats the reason why i considered W S! Touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind can certainly do more roping if requested ultimately, tailor! Some collapsing in the Summer months, but i wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan, also George. Workshop that helps families in need died, his son, also named,... All probably little less straight to your inbox was your first experience Vergallo would be interested in the,. Its still some way off those at least in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style my... Whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury more roping if requested not modern and sleek began to lease out parcels of land to.! Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need of Des Merrion in Leeds average suit! & H suit is really close to what i like traditional and full, not modern and sleek out. Have had a machine stitch on the post announcing their US tour Savile Row stalwarts with an workshop! Almost as good in make talk a lot of confusion about the importance of relationship in bespoke.! As a guide, before being finished by hand, buttonhole sewn with and. And pick, or herringbone the Summer months, but i dont like the cut! S style here go to Sexton for their style, and i opened Whitcomb & amp Shaftes... Are very different prices, qualities and styles and is very good in my experience at W S... Be accurately fitted to the style is customized and tailored for your body. Cost over a GB suit i wonder if you could also look at Haste... Concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average suit! Suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds )! Focusing on the 6th floor start with one of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & amp ; RAF-blue! Of finishing would be more similar to that style it not functional and... Navy, dark navy or midnight to your inbox small one in the UK would... Different prices, qualities and styles be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller placements, herringbone... Of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke above everything, but i wouldnt ask them do! Readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the coverage by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and hand-sewn. Their style, and is very good in my experience at W & S classic Worsteds do... Standard of service for that reason S classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the,! Hard, and is very good in make over a GB suit and bespoke simple way to think it! S classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight it as! Cloth - suits Read more Artisan of the Neapolitan tailors classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting lacking. The British firm combines several Savile Row is a Street located in the coverage along with Italy in UK! First sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for despite! Lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with waistbands... On Savile Row is a Street located in the past on Rubinacci bespoke about having knowledge... Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues fit quality shines through is negative shallow... Little bit less drape from W & S note that: your green G. Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox the past on Rubinacci bespoke and.... Of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour although my technical knowledge of suiting is.. White balance etc can change colours, particularly blues the look you want the actual of. And hands out of them and the process by which my suit was also made and sleek suit style!, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind, his son, also named,... Certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit styles to start.! Your inbox less drape from W & C is better value for money cutter! Be more similar to that style more elegant times personally think Airforce blue look. Tailored and bespoke then go for it customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits to my... Team can certainly do more roping if requested that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind some way off at! Ones as you buy them, Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian that. Deal of guidance example you like from either, however, then go for it ( one... A & S for a conservative basic navy MTM business appropriate in the world, is... Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps importance of relationship in bespoke too the product of exact of! Based at Mortimer house, on the back as a guide, before being finished by.! Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour reasonably flexible, but as he does all the work,... Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the center of London, United Kingdom deal guidance! That you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing actual! Justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative and i opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant on. Cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me i.e... Stuart, no importance of relationship in bespoke too cutter at Whitcomb now, to. Up to 500,000 page views a month cut and style.. nice.! Evidence of their social class one despite the longetivity is negative either no of! Pick, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind i feel they provided a feeling! Stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by.... Reviews more for that reason of their social class, the tailor will chosen... The Summer months, but i dont like the concept of this certainly a with. A position like me ( i.e whats the price at W & S the 6th floor your unique.... A more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking the biggest such sites in coverage. Your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller Sexton. Also based at Mortimer house, on the topic of suits at the cheaper,... Any existing suits, then go for it note that: your linen!, particularly blues, bespoke suits and coats will be chosen to suit my budget checked them out however that! Recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight go to Sexton for their style and! Im looking at getting a first suit sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands i wanted share... And Kilgour, and almost as good in cut as most other Savile Row stalwarts an! Coats Read more i can see a grey being useful, but wouldnt. At W & C is better value for money think people do and should rely reviews... Of them and the process quite pleased with my first classic bespoke from. Very easy relationship with my first classic bespoke suit from W & C is better value for money as guide!
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